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Feb3
My Windows Leak!
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If your windows leak, you have a problem much greater than the appearance of water when it rains. Water leaks damage your property and can lead to mold, so your quick action to fix this problem will be very important.
The problem is that water leaks in buildings is a complicated subject and each leak is unique. You may need an expert to assist.
Here are a few tips to get you started:
1. If it leaks when it is not raining, it could be condensation. We have a different article for that. It’s called Window Condensation – Top 10 Fixes.

Window condensation appears as beads of water on the face of the window, and typically occurs when the temperature suddenly drops.
2. The first thing to look for with any window leak is the condition of the caulk around the outside of the window. If it has cracks or holes, recaulk the window and see what happens in the next rain.

This is an adhesive caulk failure where the caulk remained adhered to the window but disengaged from the EFIS surround.

This is also an adhesive sealant failure. This time the caulk is sticking to the brick but not to the window.
3. If you see water coming over or through the top of the window, the water may be coming from above the window and through the inside of the wall. You must investigate the construction above the window.

Looking up at the outside of this window we see a curved steel lintel which is made in two pieces. The unsealed seam between them can conduct water into the window head.

Sometimes a window leak is not a window leak at all. This crack in a masonry coping brought a lor of water into the building.

Leaks through roofing can appear as window leaks. If a leak occurs at the top of a window, go up on the roof. You might be surprised at what you find.
4. If you see water coming through the bottom of the window, look for the sealant that should always be between the sill part of the frame and the jamb, or side part of the frame.

Leak at bottom of window. The yellow arrow shows where the sill and jamb of the window should have been sealed to one another, but were not. The black arrow shows damage to the interior wood moulding.
5. If you are in a larger building, the pattern of the leaks will be a very important diagnostic tool. Map out the leaks on a picture of each side of the building and see if the leaks are clustered. Similarities among the leaks will lead you to the causes.

Look for patterns of water leaks. Visual patterns on the outside of the wall may be clues regarding how the water is moving through the wall system.
6. Speaking of causes, there will usually be more than one cause for a water leak. Even if you find something, keep looking.7. Following any leak repair, monitor the result. You can accelerate the feedback by testing the repaired area with spray from a garden hose. Wait until the new caulk is dry before doing this.
There is so much more to the topic of water leakage, that I will continue next time.
Windows leak?
Contact me, Mark Meshulam,
the Chicago Window Expert
for the expert attention you deserve.My phone: 847-945-9200 ext 229
My email: mark@chicagowindowexpert.comSubscribe to Chicago Window Expert
12 Responses to “My Windows Leak!”
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jean lacocque April 2nd, 2009 at 6:53 pm
Clearly assessing this problem is not always for a lay person. Do you provide free estimates? I live in a new bldg, one room an addition. It leaked only when it warmed quickly and all the ice melted from the roof. It was alot of water. Maybe its behind the siding and maybe a weatherstripping problem . How and who can examine this problem? Help
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Hi Jean Lacocque,
The symptom you described (big leak during a thaw) is common where a point of water entry is lower than the water level present adjacent to it. Ice or snow creates a dam to allow water to pool higher than the waterproofed level of the roof. You suddenly have a situation where a part of your building is immersed.
Very few parts of buildings can handle immersion. So you have two choices:
1. Reduce or eliminate the damming by using gutter heaters or shed-type covers over the tops of the gutters.
2. Re-detail the point of entry so that it is raised higher than any possible future water level. At edges of roofs it has become popular to install rubberized membranes such as “Ice and Water Shield” along the bottom edge of the roof beneath the shingles. Done right, this can be very effective.Of course I am available for consultation. Please email me at markm@buildersarch.com or call me at 847-945-9200 ext 229 we can set up a time to talk. Best of luck! Mark Meshulam
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Not that I’m totally impressed, but this is a lot more than I expected when I stumpled upon a link on Furl telling that the info is quite decent. Thanks.
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FANTASTIC!
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The style of writing is quite familiar . Did you write guest posts for other blogs?
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Hi Jane,
I have quite a few articles published at various sites across the internet (Google: Mark Meshulam), but they can all be found either here, at http://www.buildersarch.com, or at http://www.poingology.com. Thanks for writing!
Mark -
Hi, good post. I have been wondering about this issue,so thanks for posting.
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Hi,
Do you know any reliable company I can get help in California? I have a roof leak, interviewed about 7 companies, hired 1 to do the job. they put in new roof – remove concrete tiles, put in new flashing at valley area, put in new felt paper, but did not fix the leak. when it rain, under neath window is still wet. used to have marching ants all over my bay window. company came out and apply more asphalt on the side of the roof tiles, problem is still there. please help! -
Hi Linda,
Very sorry about your roof leaks. I know California has been getting a lot of rain lately.
If your problem is beneath the windows, it is probably in the wall and /or window, and not the roof. First check the caulk around the window, Send me some pictures and I will try to help. -
I can help you with your window leaks even if I am in Chicago and you are far, far away.
I have already helped countless people who sent in descriptions and pictures of their window leak problems. Send pictures with interior and exterior views of your leakage area along with a larger picture of the building.
If the leak is on the top floor of the building, a picture of the roof above the leak area will also be very helpful.
Mark Meshulam
Chicago Window Expert
mark@chicagowindowexpert.com -
I have a leak that has just started. It is originating between the head jamb of the window and the top wood trimming which immediately abuts it. The water droplets are coming from the top between them and not from any part of the window itself as I can see.
I’m assuming that this is a roof problem rather than the window since no moisture or droplets are coming from any part of the window itself. I live in the East Coast, Western PA, and we’ve had tons of snow which is probably attributable to this problem (immense accumulation of snow is on the roof). I was wondering what your thoughts are on this?
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Hi Jason,
Yes, my friends at Traco have been telling me about the crazy amount of snow you have had. They are in Cranberry Township, just outside Pittsburgh.If you have water coming over the top of the window, then your potential leak sources are:
1. The caulk at the exterior top of the window may have failed.
2. The wall construction above the window may have developed a leak. This could be a lintel flashing in a masonry wall or a siding flashing in a frame construction.
3. Higher up, it could also be the roof, but since the leak is at the edge of the building, and not in the middle of the roof, this indicates a problem in how the roofing is terminated at its edges.If the problem developed after heavy snow, this may be your scenario: Snow piled high not only on the rood but also on the gutters, creating a condition where the edge of the roofing was immersed in snow. All you needed was a little warming to turn the snow to water. If the melting occurred closest to the roof, the snow could capture the water, creating an invisible swimmimg pool under the snow. Now the edge of the roof is immersed in water. Roofs are not designed for immersion. They function by “shedding” the water. During immersion, the water can go uphill and find its way under shingles and through seams and nailholes in roofing paper.
This problem may not recur until your next major snow.
The solution is to have your roofer redo the bottom edge of the roof by removing the lowest few courses of shingles, and running a self-adhesive rubberized membrane such as “Ice and Water Shield” along the edge, being sure to get it as high as is normally successfully done in your area.
There is a wealth of info here: http://www.graceathome.com
Good luck!
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